The Captive Care of Leopard Geckos


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The Captive Care Of Leopard Geckos

Introduction

There are hundreds of care guides out there for this popular species and we didn’t feel the need to write one of our own, preferring to use by agreement one which we considered comprehensive at the time

. However we have been inundated with requests to produce a care guide based upon our own preferred keeping methods which you will see differs somewhat from the majority. We hope that this guide will provide new insights and a different perspective for those who wish to keep this most wonderful of species.

Description

Leopard geckos are a ground dwelling gecko from Pakistan, India and Afghanistan and are widely considered to be the ideal starter lizard due to their docile temperament, ease of care and longevity. They can live for up to 20 years, reaching adult size (and sexual maturity) at 8 months to 1 year. Their total length can exceed 8 inches (20cm) and can weigh anything from 50 to 120 grams. Although they are considered nocturnal, they can also be active during the day in captivity.

Eublepharidae geckos possess a true eyelid which distinguishes members of this genus from other geckos. Other members of the family include the Banded Geckos of North and Central America. The natural colouring is yellow/brown with dark spots but the past 20 years has seen a vast increase in the range of colour morphs available through selective breeding.

Housing

Horizontally oriented vivaria are the preferred housing for these geckos. Housing can be wooden or glass vivaria at a minimum floor space of 24" x 15" for a pair. It is widely regarded that sand is the ideal substrate for this species, but we beg to differ We would advise against sand of any type, as there is always the danger of impaction.

Our preferred substrate medium is the recently available cocofibre substrate which, as well as being organic & sterile, has marvellous water-retaining qualities. This makes it ideal for retaining a dry top level whilst the lower levels retain moist - allowing for a good relative humidity.. A top layer of moss over a third of the enclosure provides a damp area for help with shedding as well as providing a more natural look Using a substrate of coco fibre negates the need for a wet box to help with shedding.

Furnishings should consist of a hide for each gecko to provide security (half coconut shells are ideal) & a few cork bark pieces providing landscape levels.. Always provide a water bowl & refresh daily. The scattering of a little moss can break up the tedium whilst also providing extra water retaining qualities.

Lighting, Temperature & Humidity

Leopard geckos require daytime temperatures in the range 27 - 31 degrees Celsius with a night time drop of 5 to 10 degrees with a relative humidity of between 50 - 70%. Background temperature can be achieved by placing a heat mat to cover one-third of the ground area controlled by a suitable thermostat.

Lighting has long been considered non-essential for nocturnal geckos, however we have noticed considerable differences in the health & well-being by providing them with a mild UV emitting lamp during daylight hours. There are a variety of good-quality electronic timers which are ideal for maintaining these schedules

Humidity can be maintained by lightly spraying the vivarium with water daily. During summer months it may be necessary to spray more often. You should never allow the substrate to dry out completely and a bowl with fresh water should be available at all times.

Feeding

A high-quality varied diet of properly gut-loaded insects is the preferred diet. Suitable insects include crickets as a staple - allowing 8 to 10 suitably sized crickets per feed - with locusts,& wax worms for variety. These should be dusted with a high-quality vitamin powder every other feed. Monitor food intake at every feed to ensure each gecko is receiving equal amounts. It is unfair to expect all food to be eaten immediately & we allow a few crickets to remain in with them for snacking as & when they choose..

Again it is widely considered a basic practice to use mealworms as a staple. We are inclined to advise against these, as they are nutritionally deficient and merely provide cheap fodder for people who farm hundreds to supply the pet market. Leopard geckos raised on varied diets with crickets as a staple are far healthier and have a better chance of a longer life. We have had a 100% survival rate using this method.

Place a small piece of veg (carrot, fresh greens etc) in the viv to provide a food source for free range insects. This ensures your geckos are not attacked during sleep & also has the added benefit of providing top-up gut load for the insects.

Calcium is essential for the health of geckos and vital for growth of hatchlings & breeding females. Ground calcium can be placed in a small bowl in the viv for them to help themselves, but we prefer to sprinkle some around their mouths before lightly spraying them. As they lick the water from their faces they will also take in the calcium. Lack of calcium will result in weak limbs, fragile eggs & deformed hatchlings.

Behaviour

Leopard geckos are be best observed at dusk & dawn - their preferred time for hunting. And feeding should be scheduled around these times As with most geckos, males are extremely territorial in the presence of females. but juvenile males can sometimes be kept together if not subject to female contact. That being said we always raise our hatchlings individually until they reach maturity.

Adults are equally at home if housed singly or as pairs or trios. If keeping more than one in the same viv, a pecking order will be established - so keep an eye on each individual regards food intake. Should bullying be noticed remove the weaker gecko & house separately, monitoring health & progress. We also advise removing the female(s) after the breeding season to allow them time to replenish her reserves away from the constant attentions of a randy male.

Leopard geckos can be handled in most cases without problems and regular handling is encouraged when young to get them used to humans and develop a trusting relationship. Never grab them and never pick them up by the tail. Leopard geckos in common with other geckos can lose their tails as a form of defence. Although it will grow back, it is never as full or attractive as the original..Always allow them to come to you by placing your upturned hand in front of them. We suggest gravid females a handled as little as possible to prevent damage to the developing eggs and reduce unnecessary stress.

Breeding & Hatchling Care

Sexing Leopard Geckos is surprisingly easy. Males have very prominent bulges at the base of the tail and are stockier & eventually larger than females. Sexual maturity is reached at 7 - 10 months, but breeding too young can cause problems. I would strongly recommend 12 months as the preferred minimum age for females.- providing she is a good weight (50g+) and healthy

Females should also be removed from the male after 3 - 4 clutches and allowed time for rest & recuperation. Extra supplementation is vital for egg producing females & calcium intake should be monitored at these times Eggs will be buried within the substrate & care should be taken when removing from the viv. Place in an incubator on a substrate of moist cocofibre or your preferred medium at 28C. Incubation times are between 6 & 8 weeks

Hatchlings should be allowed to remain in the incubation pot until the egg sac has been fully absorbed, then transferred to a small raising box. Hatchlings can be raised in similar conditions to the adults and should be fed 3 - 5 suitably sized crickets per session & watered daily

A lot of people prefer to raise hatchlings on kitchen towel to minimise the risk of impaction, but we prefer a more organic approach. It should be noted that kitchen towel has the ability to strip the moisture from the surroundings much the same as blotting paper and this can be lethal to hatchlings. Since we discovered the delights of cocofibre we have never lost a hatchling through impaction.

As stated above a routine should be established from an early age to allow the young geckos to become familiar with human contact. Hides are especially important to allow a safe retreat from light & noises. Otherwise these geckos respond eagerly to human contact. We recommend hatchlings are raised individually to prevent competition for food and sibling rivalry which can result in injury or even death of the weaker individual. Males & Females should be kept separated until fully mature to avoid premature breeding.

Conclusion
Leopard Geckos have proved a popular pet for decades and will provide years of satisfaction if the right care is given. They are less needy than the usual domestic animals and are ideally suited to young and old alike, providing much needed experience in the keeping of reptiles in captivity. They are always available as captive bred and are the preferred gecko to keep rather than the delicate wild caught species occasionally offered by reptile stores.

Remember to always do your research and read as many care guides as you can to gain a broad opinion.If you do choose a store for your purchase, do your research carefully and search for recommendations via the internet. Ask for the history on the gecko. Stores will be reluctant to give you the source, but they should be able to provide you with hatch dates or approximate age. If you're concerned about the origins of your gecko choose a trusted and established breeder, as they can give you full history, hatch dates and a wealth of knowledge through experience.

And of course remember to check our Leopard Gecko Availability page!