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Fan Foot Gecko Care
(Ptyodactylus hasselquisti)

[Ptyodactylus hasselquisti] Ptyodactylus hasselquisti [Ptyodactylus hasselquisti]

General

Fan Foot or Fan Fingered Geckos are a medium-sized rock-dwelling species from the rocky desert & uplands of North Africa, Iraq & Iran. They have rough texture in shades of light & golden browns with large beautiful eyes and an adult size of around 6" (12cm) Their name derives from the fan-like structure of their toes which are ideally suited for running up vertical rock faces. It is also found in scrub, oasis's and even human houses.. They are occasionally available as wild-caught specimens and rarely as captive bred, although some breeders have achieved consistent results. As with most gecko species, it is always advisable to opt for captive-bred should the opportunity arise, as these will have no unsavoury parasites and are rarely stressed - making them ideal captive subjects

[Ptyodactylus hasselquisti]

Housing

Fan foot geckos can be housed simply in tall, glass vivaria with a minimum size of 18" H x 12"W x 12"D. The ideal substrate to use with this species is fine-grade sand. However kitchen towel is by far the safest option with hatchlings or young geckos. Wherever possible try to provide a cork or rock surface along the back & sides of the viv to allow these geckos to climb.
Other furnishings should consist of a few small, flat rocky perches and cork hides. A waterbowl isn't necessary as these geckos prefer to lick the condensation from the walls, so spraying lightly at least once a day is advisable

[Ptyodactylus hasselquisti]

Heating, Lighting & Humidity

Fan foot geckos are nocturnal and therefore do not necessarily need specialist lighting, however they do need to have access to at least some lighting, even if it's only daylight, to help maintain a natural body clock. The period of daylight needs to mimic natural seasonal changes, with a total of up to 16 hours in high summer to around 8 hours during winter. If using an artificial lighting source, try to maintain these seasonal adjustments with the use of an electrical timer.
UV tubes cannot be rigged to a dimmer or thermostat. Many people use an overhead bulb to raise the temperature. Although we use UV as the main 'added' heat source, their tanks are placed on shelves in our reptile room where ambient temperature are relatively high. There are occasions where we have to turn all lights out & just have daylight, but this is normally only during the hottest months.
Fan foot geckos require an ambient temperature of 80°F (27°C) rising to a hot spot of 95°F (35°C),with a night-time drop of approx 10°. These temperatures are easily achieved with a heatmat controlled by a suitable thermostat placed along the outside of the viv and covering one side or one-third of the back area. Depending on your set-up, it is possible to utilise the heat produced by the starter unti as an extra source - for instance placing the control at one end of the shelf the tank is on. This has the same effect as using a heatmat & can be adjusted by manual placement. If using artificial lighting, adjust the thermostat accordingly to take into account the higher ambient temperature.
Always use a quality digital thermometer to monitor your temps. Humidity is best provided by lightly misting the viv at least once a day

[Ptyodactylus hasselquisti]

Feeding

Suitably sized crickets can provide the bulk of these geckos diet, but they will thrive if given as much variety as possible to provide alternative minerals & maintain an interest. Other commonly available insects include waxworms, and small locusts. These in turn can be supplemented with small, naturally occurring invertebrates during the spring & summer months, such as small spiders, grasshoppers etc.
Food insects should always be gut-loaded a day prior to feeding with a high-quality insect gutload, fresh green vegetables and non-citrus fruit. Extra supplementation can be provided by dusting the insects with Nutrabol, Reptivite or equivalent every other feed. We have also found the addition of a small bowl filled with calcium powder placed in the viv an ideal option, with the geckos often helping themselves as they need - especially with breeding females

[Ptyodactylus hasselquisti] [Ptyodactylus hasselquisti]

Breeding & Hatchling Care

Fan foot geckos are relatively easy to sex with the males having large, hemipenal bulges.. Females ideally need to be at least 12 months old before breeding is attempted. Any earlier and you run the risk of putting too much strain on the female, with often fatal consequences. Females should also be in top health, with a good weight and thick, healthy fat deposits in the tail & around the hips. Fan foot geckos lay up to 6 clutches of two eggs throughout the breeding season, and these are usually hidden or glued to the walls or surfaces of the viv. If the eggs have been glued in place, leave them to hatch in place. You can cover them with a small pot taped in place, although we've found the female to be protective of hatchlings. Once hatched however, they should be removed and raised in a small nursery viv like a pen-pal or critter keeper

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